This articles turns its attention to how one would go about building a ferro-cement keel boat of between 30 to 45 feet. First, the full scale shapes of each of the frames are laid out on a flat surface. Frames should be welded at the joints and adequately braced to prevent distortion when the wet mortar is applied. After the frames are squared and line so that the hull form is fair, the first layers of mesh are wrapped around the pipe frames. Next the stringer rods should be bent around the frames at 2 and one-half inch to 3 inch centers and attached by wiring them tightly to the pipe frames so that they will not slip with the weight of the mortar. Where sharp bends need to be made in the high tensile steel rods, heat applied with a gas torch will best accomplish the task. Transverse rods, often of lighter gauge, are used in addition to the stringers. The outer layers of mesh, normally four, are wrapped around the outside stringers and both inner and outer layers are wired tightly to the stringers at close intervals so as the make a rigid sandwich about one-half of an inch to five-eighths of an inch thick. Care must be taken to ensure that all loose ends are tucked in. In yachts and other vessels with a keel sections, the steel framework can extend around the keel section. Fuel and water tanks can also be incorporated in the keel section. Where possible in the design, it is desirable to incorporate engine beds as an integral part of the hull and keel section. Construction with ferro-cement allows a wide keel section that will accommodate the engine in a much lower position in the boat than would be possible with a wood hull with a heavy keel in the way. Fastening the usual fittings to a ferro-cement hull is no more difficult than fastening to wood, steel, or fiberglass. Usually one merely bores the bolt hole with a masonry drill, countersinks it where necessary, and fills up the surface with rich mortar- or better steel, with an epoxy resin. In some cases, however, such as in installing the engine beds and chain plates, it is best to build in fixing belts or tabs before plastering.