Basically, a ferro-cement yacht is usually a dream concocted in the mind of an amateur boat builder who has seen pictures of a hull under construction, or has seen a boat such as the 52 foot cutter "Awahnee." The dream is simply that such a hull can be produced in the back yard with simple tools and no previous experience with ferro-cement, that it costs not more than 1,000 dollars to build, not counting the cabin and rigging. It is only when the hull has been completed and the owner begins to figure out the cost of the cabin structure, plumbing, wiring, auxiliary motor, generator, masts, spars, sails, fuel tank, water tank, pumps, radio phone, refrigerator, ships compass, etc. that he realizes that the total bill for the boat could run 12,000 dollars with all the equipment. This is when the owner suddenly may decide there isn't enough money to complete the boat. Can the hull be sold? This depends to a great extent on how well the metal and wire mesh frame has been made to reinforce the hull; how well the mortar has been plastered on; and whether a wooden shell has been used to deep the frame from becoming warped during construction. In an effort to forestall all these mistakes, and to standardize and improve construction methods, a training course has been established for dealers, who sell plans and specifications for a Canadian Design firm. Basic materials for ferro-cement have changed little since Nervi in Italy built his first hulls in 1943. To construct the wooden mold, erect two parallel wooden beams which are leveled out and used as a base-line. Next, ten or more wooden rib molds are made up from patterns supplied with the plans. Normally, 12 layers of 1 inch mesh are used now, and this is applied in equal layers, on either side of the reinforcing rods. The mortar mix is fairly wet. The finish is done with a sponge trowel and then steel troweled. Curing the hull is best done with steam.